Saturday Swishing at Spitalfields

Winter's not quite behind us but the spring/summer 2011 collection 'round-ups' are upon us and upon us. Time to close your eyes and visualise yourself in sheer dresses, leather shorts, capri pants, cat woman sunglasses, clogs and more. More to the point, time to open your eyes and peer in your closet. Does it have what it takes?

If you are not in the mood to spend as you would have in years past don't fret....just stay with me; however, if you are, then perhaps you should first and foremost, aquaint yourself with why austerity is the name of the game for the next little while and then return to me.

Okay cautious spenders, next step: take from your closet clothes you won't be wearing/are happy to see the back of/have never worn; mentally note your favourite new season looks and then, on February 5 (Saturday) head to the historic Old Spitalfields Market for the first major swishing event of the year.

Swishing is just over 10 years old and is, basically a way to keep your wardrobe fresh by recycling what you no longer want for what you definitely want. Its upscaling of sorts, ie, the by -product has more value than what first went in...which for you it will. Most of you are well aware of the glorious, ethically brilliant idea that swishing is but if you want to know more read this.

Meanwhile, the rules for this Saturday are pitch up at Spitalfields between 11am and midday to drop off your contribution (you have to bring at least 1 good-for-wear thing). Chillax in the cool environs till 2pm when you can browse but not (yet) swish. At 2.45 get swishing. Tickets and full details now available online.

And remember to be civil to your fellow swishers. It is after all an ethical event.

SUMMER RAYNE OAKES' STYLE, NATURALLY IS OUT!

Some people might be a little put off by yet another 'green style bible' after the slew we was in 2008 but, to them I say, save the cynicism for the next book...this one - Style, Naturally, by Summer Rayne Oakes you have to get your hands on. Why? Well lets look at the facts:

Fact 1: Summer Rayne Oakes (or SRO as she is sometimes called) is truly stylish. Just watch some of her myriad youtube videos...she appears in all garbs, but always looking individual and chic/cool/fashionable/all of the above. This is someone who's views on fashion and style you want to hear.

Fact 2: she has modelled quite a bit but her interest in ethical/eco style and fashion isn't shaped primarily by this sort of involvement in the field. Rather she has done some more in-depth study of the environment (she has an entomolgy and environmental science undergrad degree from Cornell). So she understands the science of being eco rather better than if she just looked pretty in 'trendy' green fashion. The latter, while commendable (at least more than just looking pretty in any old, mainstream, not-very -good-for-anyone-at-all, fashion), isn't grounds for buying a whole book by that pretty person. At least not to me.

Fact 3: As anyone who knows her knows very well, she has her fingers in most if not all the ethical fashion and design pies around....especially in North America, where so many of the most prominent, promising and solvent eco-labels originated. This is a woman that knows much about the business of ethical style. A she says in the promo video above, it is essential to discuss the 'cost' of being a green fashionista...and she suggests it actually can save you money.



To these quite compelling facts I'd add that she has a natural, humorous writing voice and her 'take' on being ethically aware in personal style is not one of judging but rather of showing a genuinely better way. Any book that she has penned is likely to be a fun read.

None of this is to say that I haven't had moments of feeling she was a bit OTT with her self-marketing...but then, thats American gusto for you, I guess (Oprah anyone?). And also I guess she is entitled to be as ambitious and the next media-exposed person (Oprah anyone), so perhaps its par for the course. Be that all as it may, it needn't affect our judgement on her ability and place in the eco-fashion/design/style world, to write an informative book.

So all that to say I'm off to buy the book on Amazon. The sneak preview shows plenty of interesting ideas from some fabulous designers - we love the fact the Doie features prominently with the collections at DeviDoll.

Looking forward to hearing what you thought of the book....and expecting ourselves to find a true blend of fashion and eco cred!

WELCOME TO YOUR 2009 FASHION LIFE.

In the US - southern Florida -- for Christmas break. All around us life swirls in ways that can only happen in America. Say what you like but this is a country with a very very deeply ingrained sense of hard work, hope, 'anything-is-possible' mentality and astonishing belief in happy endings. It seems like NYC apart, America cannot understand cynics. Of course, all this comes at a (sometimes huge) cost to individual and nation, but still, the innate positive mentality -- cranked up to full volume during the 'holidays' -- is something to ponder and, in places, admire.

So 2009 is here. Just this fact signals 2008 is over which, in itself, is cheering. Not that 2009 will be easy - nope, not at all -- but at least the deep economic pits we are most certainly going to visit will be expected...very little of the precipitous falls of 2008 were expected at all (Lehman gone in 72 hours....no one saw that coming).

Some important questions with which to look into the new year:

1) What will the relationship between money and fashion in 2009? As has been said before on these pages, fashion, ie, the desire to adorn and dress ourselves is a fundamental part of human self-expression. So we should be clear that the importance of fashion isn't going to recede because of the recession -- although we can expect a crescendo like baying from the usual naysayers who bang on about how fashion is essentially frivolous and not connected to any 'real' need etc etc. Be that as it may, the key thing to note is that, more than in a very long time and for some years ahead (at least), the relationship between money and fashion is going to be thrown into sharp relief.
Anyone who deals with fashion -- selling it, writing about it, marketing it and making it -- MUST contend with this issue. For the consumer, its not anymore just about looking good....its about looking good on a budget and this is going to reverberate all through the fashion food chain. The fashion industry will have to understand and accomodate less spendy shopping behaviour. The Guardian tells us that Chanel in Rue Cambon - that bastion of luxury and symbol of fabulous, untouchable wealth -- has cut 200 jobs as even it feels the pain of the economic downturn and that Prada advertised price cuts in the windows of its Milan boutiques (yikes!) last month. Yup, everyone's gotta re-think.

2) How to spend money on fashion when money is tight? Mindfully....that principle of conscientiousness and balance that Gautam Buddha gave us over a thousand years ago works very well anywhere you apply it. For sure. The re-working of our finances that we most definitely will feel this year should push us to purchase what we want having saved for it and to keep and wear our purchases for yonks. The good, old fashioned way to shop for our wardrobes. We need to remember the joy of waiting to get and the exhilaration of receipt.

3) Money can buy fashion, but can it buy style? No. Real, actual style is something that originates within a person, is indelibly peppered with stuff about them, feeds off individuality, evolves over time and is/can be as fresh as every new thought the individual has. None of which can be purchased.** The paucity of credit must force us to evaluate each purchase within the context of our style and be confident in this. Use the current economic situation to learn about your fashion self.

**While advisors like DeviDoll (for example) cannot decide your style for you, they very much can offer inspiration and content. In 2009 DeviDoll will take this role very very seriously, providing many opportunities for style inspiration and style experimentation...stay tuned).

There are many more questions to be sure but I thought these 3 are good to start with. And added to them a sage snippet from Cintra Wilson in the (very well written) New York Times on the first day of 2009, which (under the auspicious eye of Ganesha, Lord of Auspicious New Beginnings), I am going to use as a road map for keeping my fashion life alive in the hard economic times ahead:

"At the finish of any regrettable life episode, we invariably go back to basics to distinguish values that are real and indissoluble from those that are false and temporary. In doing so, we rediscover joys we forgot during our manic race to the dead end."

Happy New Year, indeed.

HOW MUCH DOES ETHICS MATTER IN FASHION - A LESSON LEARNED

Those of you who receive our newsletter will know that we did our first real public, 'in-the-flesh' appearance for Boutique de Noel earlier this month. Organised by the Junior League of London, Boutique de Noel is (basically) a 1 1/2 day xmas fair made up of independant, exclusive retailers, the proceeds from which go to charity projects in the UK. Always one to throw itself at good cause (and shopping to support children and families is a pretty amazing cause), DeviDoll was honoured to included.

Happy to report that it all went swimmingly. But even more interested in reporting the lesson learned: to an un-preselected audience, in an ethical fashion colletion it's the fashion part that speaks the loudest. This may not come as a huge surprise but to see it in action was instructive. Part of the problem seems to be simple lack of knowledge -- "clothes can be made from bamboo? really?!"; but there is definitely an element of apathy -- "cashlama, huh? fairtrade? Uh...that's, uh....interesting, I guess....erm...anyway, its so soft and cheaper really than regular cashmere. I love that!"

In my mind there is no doubt that if something looks good and then it has done good en route to you, it wins over stuff that only has the former going for it. But I realize some people don't really care about the latter....it's as if its not their problem to worry about. It will take a lot more public awareness for the message to sink in that, ethically made and delivered fashion, is something we all need to think about.

Listen, I'm not complaining because DeviDoll has many customers that are not fussed about ethical but the effect of their shopping is the same as those who are -- DeviDoll is better able to support ethical fashion designers, spread the message and move forward in its aim of making a difference. I am just noting that, having stuck my head out of the eco/green/ethical fashion bubble, I realized how much is still not obvious to shoppers.

Guess we have our work cut out.

DEVIDOLL LIVE DEBUTS WITH STYLISTS AT ECO-FASHION PARTY 2008

At DeviDoll we get around. And we wanted to share snippets of our tete-a-tete's with the whose who of ethical fashion, our forays into fashion shows, our exclusive interviews with consumers and purveyors of green fashion....the entire hoo-haa of being bang smack in the midst of the ethical fashion space.

So we bring you DEVIDOLL LIVE. Its not Hollywood (or Bollywood, for that matter...the difference matters to me not a little) but its topical, home-made and local, authentic and organic and educational.

Our debut was at the Eco Fashion Party (check August's archive here) held at the start of the Autumn fashion season at London's Surya Bar. We talked to 3 of the stylists present -- Lupe Castro, Style Counsel's Maggie and Louise from Create Yourself -- about the if's, why's, what's and how's of ethical styling.

Before anyone thinks we don't know it: yes we are aware this is not from yesterday but from the start of a season that already feels 'over' in fashion buyer terms...and to that we say ' hey...ever heard of slow fashion??'

DEVIDOLL LIVE -- here to stay, so tune in and listen up.

THE BUSINESS OF ETHICAL FASHION

So, the eco-fashion party I spoke of some weeks ago happened. And it was quite an instructive happening – from the venue (Club4Climate’s Surya bar), the designers who exhibited, the fact that there was an auction – of important pieces donated by participating designers -- proceeds from which went to Ethical Justice Foundation (EJF) to the vibe among those who attended – everything about this event was about activism via the (increasingly popular) platform that is ethical fashion.

Throughout the evening a key fact loomed large -- ethical fashion now, without a doubt, straddles two things almost equally: as it has always done, it is about awareness, issues, taking a normative stand…things that people might say are ‘serious’ (things that the DEVI in you will tend toward). Equally, with the rise of chic, cool and seriously stylish designer clothing, it is now about looking good (things that the DOLL in you will appreciate deeply) and in this respect it is no more or less than all other fashion. No need to take a stance, make a point. Just get us to look fab, thank you very much.

Also it was interesting to see how, in just the last year, ethical/eco fashion has gone from being a quirky, cool, edgy concept to a real live business prospect. Selling organic cotton/locally produced/natural fabric/animal free etc etc fashion, works. As you can imagine, we at DeviDoll are pleased that in 12 months so many have joined our ranks. But it also throws up an interesting question:

as this arena opens up – new retailers, ‘specialists’, stylists, designers –who will who will take ethical fashion on as a retail issue, full-stop and who will take it on as the complex, messy issue that it is? Who will stay well clear of activist type events but be very smart about selling, merchandising, trend marketing (‘its cool, it’ll sell, lets do it’) and who will open themselves up to, even welcome, questions like

Can ethical fashion really make a difference?
How can I be ethical and fashionable on a limited budget?
How can I ethically style my wardrobe, my life?
Is there good and bad bamboo?
Should I choose the organic cotton tee designed by Lacroix for EJF or From Somewhere’s upcycled fabric tee -- is one ‘more’ ethical/eco than the other??
If this is fair-trade and ethical, then why is it so expensive?

Don’t get me wrong – the retail-minded focus is instrumental in giving ethical fashion business legs and without those the ‘space’ won’t gain the credibility and participation it needs and deserves. So no slagging off the pure ‘lets-sell-it-because-that-works’ type here. Just noting that ethical fashion, unlike conventional fashion, has (always had) serious heart and now, as the eco-fashion party showed, it is developing a serious rational, bottom-line oriented mind.

There can be no doubt that, given the very premise of ethical fashion, the meeting of heart and mind will raise interesting debates and issues about the business of ethical fashion. Stay tuned.

DEBORAH LINDQUIST ON SOPHIE ULIANO ON OPRAH

Deborah Lindquist, LA's celebrated 'Green Queen' dresses many celebrities and her emails are full of 'firsts'. Recently she sent me a really special one -- Sophie Uliano, founder of the lifestyle site 'Gorgeously Green' and author of 'Gorgeously Green: 8 Simple Steps to an Earth-Friendly Life' will be wearing one of Deborah's signature sweaters on Oprah which airs in the US on April 22 (browse the book here). We've had a recent spate of 'how to be more green' books in the UK fashion world by Matilda Lee, Tamsin Blanchard, Sandy Black and Kate Fletcher but none have the breadth of this book nor the unique (American) quality of breaking things into 'easy' steps that cover 'everything'.

But I digress; at DeviDoll we are thrilled for Deborah and, to be honest, a bit for ourselves too. I once saw Jane Fonda on Letterman talking about her eco fashion look but having one of the original DeviDoll favourite labels on Oprah is a real treat.

It gets better - Sophie will be joined by her friend and perhaps most enthusiastic supporter of her book (at least so far) - Julia Roberts. Al Gore will be there too. Just missing Leonardo and Cameron (Diaz) I guess. Anyway, here is an excerpt from what Julia, who wrote the forward for the book, has to say about it:

"I am absolutely altered. This Gorgeously Green book has provided my household with a bible of hope and help (not to mention a good cleansing mask and source for eco-cashmere).
So where to start?
Congratulations - you are already there".

Pretty glowing. The book is widely on sale now. And, as for Deborah Lindquist....well you already know where to get your hands on some of that.

NO, ITS NOT ECO

TIME magazine's current Style&Design supplement has a 1-pager called 'Going to Pieces'. It's all about the 'haute-bohemian trend..' encapsulated in '...spring's funky patchwork look...(and) shabby-chic style'. Examples are Dolce and Gabbana's '...very glamorous hippie-style patchwork chiffon gowns...' as well as '...Squint's reupholstered vintage couch (this I really like, by the way) and Etro's geometric pillows...'. Okay...fair enough, maybe.

What's not fair is the article's opinion that maybe this interest in patchwork is 'a nod to the now popular, eco-friendly movement' because, the article seems to suggest, this patchwork is the result of using cutting room floor scraps, ie, surplus. Huh? Where did they get that and how do they know this is all from surplus fabric? How credible is it that D&G's carefully constructed chiffon gowns are put together with scraps, not to mention Etro's cushions or the Louis Vuitton mother-of-pearl Tresor necklace (below) featured in the article?

Thanks to XUPINGZ for the image taken from here.

Even more galling is the inclusion, in this 'possibly' eco driven patchwork couture, of D&G's multicoloured python (yes, thats p-y-t-h-o-n, ie, animal skin) peep-toe boots

Image from teamsugar

and Miu Miu's snakeskin (there it is again) detailed leather handbag. Snake-skin put through god-knows-what sorts of chemical processing to attain multi (but certainly stylishly complementary) colours = a nod to anything eco....no chance (that's N-O).

Its irritating to read this type of journalism that uses terms like eco so wrongly and simply tries to free-ride consumer/reader interest in green living. Why not just write about this stuff for what it is -- patchwork fashion from mainstream couture designers? Why bring eco into it? Not only is it misleading but its fodder for all the cynical nay-sayers who keep telling us that eco-living and eco-fashion isn't credible/is a disguise for good old conspicuous consumption/is a savvy marketing tool etc etc. If TIME wants to write about the use of surplus fabric in fashion, then write about aGain nyc or Carol Young's Undesigned label. Current ranges from surplus fabric can be seen here and here.

Ain't no nod of the head here towards anything eco....more like a shake of the head. And while we're on the topic of shaking one's head: is it just me or is fashion od'ing on Agyness Deyn at the moment? Yes she's cool and hip but please, enough already. Someone point out to her the O-V-E-R in overexposed before its too late.

TRULY IN VOGUE

Am thrilled to see that the recently launched Vogue India is concerned with sustainable style. Not to suggest that the Vogue family doesn't pay due attention to eco-fashion -- who can forget Dec 07's Penelope Cruz -on-the-cover Green xmas shopping guide issue?No, its that 'eco-lux' has a context for, say, American or British Vogue because luxury-living is here maturing beyond bling and designer logos. Stella McCartney, ($1000+ vegan 'must-have' boots to new, 100% organic cosmetics line CARE), uber-posh Lady Bamford (founder of Daylesford Organic), Cameron Diaz's Prius habit....eco, fashionable and lux fit well together here and the respective Vogues can capitalize on that.

Vogue India, however, has a more complex mandate: the economic boom has created a large (and growing) population of rich (and fashion-conscious) Indians who equate chic with top designer labels and are willing to spend on it like never before. Status flows from Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Maybachs. Don't forget this is the country whose Maharajas alone gave Cartier and Rolls-Royce enough business to stay afloat.That's the legendary Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala who commissioned Cartier to create his necklace. The famed 'Patiala Necklace' stuff of legends and Cartier's most reknowned piece, is among the most exquisite (and expensive) jewels ever (with 2930 diamonds including De Beers 7th largest, this isn't really a surprise).

But, back to Vogue: the issues of sustainability and responsibility in fashion need attention now - not, like in the West, when enough has been spent on conspicuous consumption so that those who need to, start thinking twice. In this context it is heartening to see that Vogue India is willing to ask the question: latest Miu Miu arm candy or (a more sustainable ) chic fabric bag?

By no means am I suggesting that Vogue India can (yet) give Sublime or NU competition...I am just highlighting that a young magazine with big boots to fill, in a status/money/fashion/luxury drenched environment like that of India's Vogue readers, has asked a very good question which shows that it cares about fashion, but in an intelligent way.

Well done and keep it up. After all, everyone knows that to be in vogue is more than about just looking good.

THE SEASONLESS WARDROBE GOES MAINSTREAM

The Gods/Universe/powers-that-be are doing their bit in ensuring our new year's resolutions don't fall by the wayside: 'cross-season dressing' is a big goal of ours for 2008. You shop less (and we can all agree that this is a key part of being an ecoista) and make your wardrobe work hard.Well turns out we're in good company (so what if differently inspired) -- this weekend's Wall Street Journal reports that AW08 mainstream collections are looking unusually lightweight and 'springy' because designers have realized they need to get real about the weather when they present their collections. Michael Fink, Women's Fashion Director, Saks sums it up "It's a season where we're seeing people really think about the weather and that's important. These clothes are delivered in July and it's not getting cold until October now."

I want to add 'that women travel more than ever just as a matter of routine' to Mr. Fink's observation. It might be cold in October in NYC but in California heavy wool won't cut it and let's not even think about farther afield (like India, for example).

All hail the wardrobe for all seasons.

GREEN SHOPPING MATTERS

A recent article in a national daily suggests that the only 'true' way to be eco is to consume less (fly less, buy less and so on). Substituting our usual choices with greener ones is essentially a hoax and won't make any difference to the planet. Even worse, the article continues, green consumption is now a cover for over-consumption but with holier-than-thou/do-gooder delusion mixed in. By adding references to celebrities (including some generally loathed ones) that 'talk' green but continue (even some of the time) to lead rich-person lifestyles (private planes, multiple houses...you know the list) the article manages to roundly dismiss the value of green(er) consumption. Ain't no such thing - don't try and buy a dress produced under fair trade guidelines...doesn't matter. Just try and do without the dress.

So what do we have here? A good point very badly presented on a bed of misleading information....thanks but no thanks.

Yes, we really do need to consume less if we want to help the planet. Realistically though this is a meta-change that requires effort and societal change at many levels. As regular individuals it is often not just about our choice when it comes to consumption - we have schools to get to (on time), old parents to visit (in another country), growing kids to clothe (and re-clothe every few months) and so on. We must try to cut down and can only do what we can. Since green-celebrity loving/loathing is so big with the press, let me back up my views with Leonardo's “I’ve heard the stuff about artists flying everywhere, but we are also citizens. I do what I can for the sake of our planet but nobody is perfect. If I can influence anyone in any kind of way and get them to listen to these issues using my position, then that can only be a good thing.”

Now, is there really no point in making other choices that have to do WITH consumption, rather than its absence, if we want to make a difference. OF COURSE THERE IS! Believe it or not, hybrid cars do help, less plastic does help, buying from responsible producers does make a difference, how we dress ourselves can impact lives. Our power as consumers is very real. Its an imperfect solution, yes, but in an imperfect world, so lets just get down to it. There is no 100% eco solution but that should not stop us from choosing those from 1%-99%. Just get real about what's going on and get on with it.

Celebrities and 'glamorous' types attach themselves to any and everything but does that make those things intrinsically just about callow celebrity and status and devoid of any real worth? Only if you can't see beyond the celeb. We should be more concerned with whether we are teaching our children to turn lights off when they leave a room and doing something (anything) to support the working conditions of millions of women around the world (whose creations we so blithely don), than about whether XYZ CELEB's eco-credentials really mean something. Who cares? Even if you do care, feel free to rant about XYZ's personal ethics and NOT about the value of being green. In this case, go ahead, shoot the messenger because there is nothing wrong with the message.

Being a conscientious (including eco) consumer isn't an oxymoron and it isn't very confusing. And it's good for the planet. What are you waiting for?

TALKING ABOUT RECYCLING BEING IN THE BAG...

As we're on the subject, it seemed apropos to mention Nahui Ollin's bags and accessories.
Made from wrappers of all kinds and by independent artisans trained for the job in Mexico (under fair wage conditions), these are, by far, the best of the 'candy wrapper' labels out there. Each style has its own name (I'll let you find itsy-bitsy, clutch nuevo, and the Ritual in the picture) and comes in one of several 'wraps' as it were.
This past Autumn, Nahui Ollin bolstered its 'cool' credentials with a whole different concept - the Artisanal Collection -- traditional motifs and embroidery techniques on transitional cotton and complete with repurposed handles and button details. I have one of the few Riviera bags in the UK at the moment and in describing the effect it has, I think its fair to say sane women have looked menacing when I informed them they can only get one at DeviDoll but in January 2008.

YOUR TRASH IS MY CASH

Talk about really getting the recycling thing *REALLY* right: Conserve, an Indian NGO, founded by Anita Ahuja and her husband, Shalabh, takes discarded polythene bags and through unique processing creates some pretty funky bags and other accessories. Conserve showed at Paris for the first time this past September.


Not only is this intelligent waste management, its also compassionate social management: the Ahujas provide decent wages to the garbage pickers (a notoriously badly treated subset of the contractors the run 'waste management' in India's cities) and employment to otherwise destitute slum-dwellers who are taught skills in polythene processing or design.
Jewel in the crown: informal schooling for the children of the 300-strong slum dwelling work-force has now been put in place. About 200 youngsters between 5 and 13 now gain basic learning from about 8 teachers.
Read more about Conserve's work here and expect to see some of their designs at DeviDoll in Spring 2008.

UNDER ONE GREEN ROOF

Introducing EVO -- 'the' place to go for all things ethical. The US based site is a 'green' marketplace (though products are not sold on the site -buyers are connected to online merchants) where you can also go to get an education. EVO can help you learn about making more ethical choices in every area of life: home/auto/body/money and also figure out how green your current lifestyle is (take the Greening Your Tree quiz). The website is interesting and easy to use.



So far on this side of the pond we don't have something quite like EVO, ie, as complete a list of consumer goods combined with knowledge bank. At the moment the focus remains on having ethical goods sold in one place - not a bad place to start. Check out the Ethical Superstore or the more chic, 'department store' launched in September 2007, The Ethical One Stop Shop.