RETHINK RECYCLING

Vintage and recycled are two much used terms in ethical fashion. And for good reason – waste not, want not and all that. But for some people (indeed in some cultures as a whole) wearing what others before you (especially strangers) have worn is, well, weird. And recycled…what really tends to fall under that rubric in fashion? Dresses made of used ties? Shorts from what were once jeans? Sometimes. But does that tempt you? Hmmm….sometimes…some people…maybe. But what if it doesn’t?

Well, here's a tip about something DEFINITELY tempting from the diverse world of 'recycled' fabric -- From Somewhere, the edgy fashion label whose founders, Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci, are to be credited with coining the quixotic term ‘virgin recycled material’. And quixotic may well be how some describe From Somewhere's flea-market and vintage shop inspired collections. From Somewhere uses pre-consumer (hence virgin) textile surplus such as production off-cuts and end of rolls to make beautiful, one-off yet reproducible contemporary clothing. This re-use (or recycling) of fabric, notably retro fabrics & rare vintage prints that are already in the ‘system’, admirably redresses the balance between consumption and disposal.


I recently met the irrepresible (and wildy inspiring) Orsola de Castro and can see why she was chosen, along with her partner Fillipo Ricci, to curate LFW's now famous Esthetica(thank you to fabulous blog 'fabulously green' for this summary and slideshow). These are pioneers of London's ethical fashion scene who remain, fundamentally, design, fashion and quality led.....as well as commercially practical. It is this exact mix that is required to propel 'ethical' fashion into the club of 'mainstream' fashion. So, ethical cred aside, From Somewhere always has a finger on the latest 'look(s)' without being slave to any fashion trend.

Conclusion: they’re very smart about our looking smart.

NO, ITS NOT ECO

TIME magazine's current Style&Design supplement has a 1-pager called 'Going to Pieces'. It's all about the 'haute-bohemian trend..' encapsulated in '...spring's funky patchwork look...(and) shabby-chic style'. Examples are Dolce and Gabbana's '...very glamorous hippie-style patchwork chiffon gowns...' as well as '...Squint's reupholstered vintage couch (this I really like, by the way) and Etro's geometric pillows...'. Okay...fair enough, maybe.

What's not fair is the article's opinion that maybe this interest in patchwork is 'a nod to the now popular, eco-friendly movement' because, the article seems to suggest, this patchwork is the result of using cutting room floor scraps, ie, surplus. Huh? Where did they get that and how do they know this is all from surplus fabric? How credible is it that D&G's carefully constructed chiffon gowns are put together with scraps, not to mention Etro's cushions or the Louis Vuitton mother-of-pearl Tresor necklace (below) featured in the article?

Thanks to XUPINGZ for the image taken from here.

Even more galling is the inclusion, in this 'possibly' eco driven patchwork couture, of D&G's multicoloured python (yes, thats p-y-t-h-o-n, ie, animal skin) peep-toe boots

Image from teamsugar

and Miu Miu's snakeskin (there it is again) detailed leather handbag. Snake-skin put through god-knows-what sorts of chemical processing to attain multi (but certainly stylishly complementary) colours = a nod to anything eco....no chance (that's N-O).

Its irritating to read this type of journalism that uses terms like eco so wrongly and simply tries to free-ride consumer/reader interest in green living. Why not just write about this stuff for what it is -- patchwork fashion from mainstream couture designers? Why bring eco into it? Not only is it misleading but its fodder for all the cynical nay-sayers who keep telling us that eco-living and eco-fashion isn't credible/is a disguise for good old conspicuous consumption/is a savvy marketing tool etc etc. If TIME wants to write about the use of surplus fabric in fashion, then write about aGain nyc or Carol Young's Undesigned label. Current ranges from surplus fabric can be seen here and here.

Ain't no nod of the head here towards anything eco....more like a shake of the head. And while we're on the topic of shaking one's head: is it just me or is fashion od'ing on Agyness Deyn at the moment? Yes she's cool and hip but please, enough already. Someone point out to her the O-V-E-R in overexposed before its too late.