Shoulder your way into the new season!

Bamboo jersey top from Doie's 'Paris' collection Autumn Winter 2009

We love a new season at DeviDoll as much as the next fashionista, especially when we spot a trend that we can recreate from our existing wardrobe or a totally new look that has enduring appeal beyond just the one season. That's ethical style at it's best.

This Autumn Winter's designer collections first hit the London, Paris and Milan catwalks at the start of the year, so we've had plenty of time to mull over the shows for the most exciting style stories. Right now, we're loving one trend in particular - the statement shoulder.

The strong shoulder started as a puzzling oddity a season earlier but is now set to be the signature look of the end of the decade. Pretty much every designer agreed that the shoulder was the It-zone, and each of them had a different take on the trend.

At Balmain, where Christophe Decarnin has been experimenting with the trend for long enough to have it down to perfection, everything, from glittery evening dresses to Parisian mariniere and warrior jackets, was adorned with horn-like pads. You can channel the trend with this beautiful organic merino wool Anatomy jacket (left) in a warm shade of brown, pictured left.

Amongst surreal clothes at Nina Ricci and Givenchy, the two main trends were definitely prints and statement shoulders, in all forms, shapes and colours.

At Hervé Leger, Max Azria dropped the proportions down a notch. The shoulder was still square and futuristic but not so protruding. Jaeger London and Wunderkind had similar creations in graphic colours. Some creations, such as a Jaeger London satin crepe-mix jacket were reminiscent of power dressing circa Working Girl. The 1980s are, after all, the key source of inspiration this season.

Dolce & Gabbana made over-proportioned round shoulders the star of their catwalks. The shape has already had some red carpet outings, most notably with Rihanna at the MET Costume Institute Gala. Zac Posen showed slightly smaller shoulders, adorned with grey ruffles.

Ruffles also were the inspiration behind this smart organic merino wool stud vest by Kelly B (right). It allows you to work the strong shoulder trend in a work-appropriate way. Look out, too, for soft ruffles in the new season's collection from DeviDoll favourite Doie, pictured above.

If you want to shoulder you way into the new season now, we'd recommend the organic cotton Melrose dress by Doie (left), available immediately. Its beautifully soft draping shoulders are ultra-feminine.

On the catwalks Antonio Berardi, Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and Isabel Marant had more discreet, softer round shoulders, just as Doie has. The kind of tops which allow you to wear the trend at work, without drawing puzzled looks from more conservative colleagues.

By Lucie Goulet

AT THIS POINT A QUICKIE IS A MUST

There are times when a quickie is an absolute must, and this is such a time: this isn't a regular blog entry, its a quickie just to say "Hi, hello, we're still alive at DeviDoll blogistan HQ".

Our elongated silence is the result of a combo of reasons including business development, usual new season manic-ness (more soon on SS09 collections: Doie's 'Los Angeles', Deborah Lindquist's 'Island Girl Goes to the Desert' and Mociun's 'the Vast Expanse' and Fin's 'Nasturtium'), extensive travel (saw 2 tigers in India earlier this month, as the general election got under way, many, many political animals surfaced too) and office relocations.

But we're still here and will soon be back with our views, news, happenings, thoughts from the world of fashion, especially of the ethical, green, eco and sustainable kind.

We leave you with this.....if you missed DeviDoll's mega SpringFling back in March, don't fret, DeviDoll has another one planned for just before we all break up for summer (ie, early July). Stay tuned.

SUMMER RAYNE OAKES' STYLE, NATURALLY IS OUT!

Some people might be a little put off by yet another 'green style bible' after the slew we was in 2008 but, to them I say, save the cynicism for the next book...this one - Style, Naturally, by Summer Rayne Oakes you have to get your hands on. Why? Well lets look at the facts:

Fact 1: Summer Rayne Oakes (or SRO as she is sometimes called) is truly stylish. Just watch some of her myriad youtube videos...she appears in all garbs, but always looking individual and chic/cool/fashionable/all of the above. This is someone who's views on fashion and style you want to hear.

Fact 2: she has modelled quite a bit but her interest in ethical/eco style and fashion isn't shaped primarily by this sort of involvement in the field. Rather she has done some more in-depth study of the environment (she has an entomolgy and environmental science undergrad degree from Cornell). So she understands the science of being eco rather better than if she just looked pretty in 'trendy' green fashion. The latter, while commendable (at least more than just looking pretty in any old, mainstream, not-very -good-for-anyone-at-all, fashion), isn't grounds for buying a whole book by that pretty person. At least not to me.

Fact 3: As anyone who knows her knows very well, she has her fingers in most if not all the ethical fashion and design pies around....especially in North America, where so many of the most prominent, promising and solvent eco-labels originated. This is a woman that knows much about the business of ethical style. A she says in the promo video above, it is essential to discuss the 'cost' of being a green fashionista...and she suggests it actually can save you money.



To these quite compelling facts I'd add that she has a natural, humorous writing voice and her 'take' on being ethically aware in personal style is not one of judging but rather of showing a genuinely better way. Any book that she has penned is likely to be a fun read.

None of this is to say that I haven't had moments of feeling she was a bit OTT with her self-marketing...but then, thats American gusto for you, I guess (Oprah anyone?). And also I guess she is entitled to be as ambitious and the next media-exposed person (Oprah anyone), so perhaps its par for the course. Be that all as it may, it needn't affect our judgement on her ability and place in the eco-fashion/design/style world, to write an informative book.

So all that to say I'm off to buy the book on Amazon. The sneak preview shows plenty of interesting ideas from some fabulous designers - we love the fact the Doie features prominently with the collections at DeviDoll.

Looking forward to hearing what you thought of the book....and expecting ourselves to find a true blend of fashion and eco cred!

A TALE OF TWO (GREEN) LOVELIES - PART I

Is it easy being green? Not for some, perhaps, but for the average fashion lover it isn't hard, especially not now. In fact all it takes is a little thinking. And, to illustrate, I'd like to introduce you to these two distinct, but equally thought-provoking, lovely green ladies.

An environmental science major, supermodel of the eco-fashion world, sustainability consulant, activist and all around hottie, Summer Rayne Oakes tells us how to get it right when we shop and why it matters. Interestingly, it is internet boutiques that are taking the lead in spreading the eco-fashion word.

Footnote: she points out Panda Snack and Doie, and also pulls out Moral Fervor's delicious grey tunic - all exclusive to DeviDoll in the UK! Nice.

Check it out.